Where Are We Eating? Out in China: Jean-Georges Shanghai

Welcome to a new eating-out series: Where Are We Eating? Undoubtedly, there will be food—a lot of food. Back abroad again, in the city that builds, improves, and changes, I’m on a food quest for new food spots. But not just any food spots—ones that exemplify fine dining from comfort to opulence.

If you’re not a stranger here, you’re familiar with the restaurants that draw my eye. I’m drawn in by elegance and feel, and stay for the good food. Actually, swing back around a couple of times. So, as I talk about the restaurants I explore in this new series, I’ll highlight four main areas: food, of course, atmosphere, design, and service.

We’re starting with Jean-Georges Shanghai. Why? Well, on my return to Shanghai, I knew I wanted to start my move off on the right foot, and that meant dining on the Bund.

Atmosphere

The atmosphere here is fluid but generally comfortable. Depending on the time of day, there are different vibes. Early dining is electric with the excitement of the evening coming. Brunch is more boisterous. The overall constant is the welcoming atmosphere and refinement, each table being its own little bubble. People come for the location, food, and experience.

Design

One of the things that I enjoy about the design, after having visited during the day and at night, is the seamless openness from the brunch hour to the intimacy of the dinner hour. The primary white of the furniture and linen, accented by gold and marbling, creates a clean and modern aesthetic with touches of classical charm, where the plate can be the star once it’s on the table.

Service

With one word. Exceptional. From stepping off the elevator to saying goodbye, the service is attentive and on point. It’s what you’d expect from Michelin dining, with observance, courtesy, and politeness, and a touch of Chinese culture, with an unhurried dining experience.

Food

When dining out, even at fine dining establishments, I make it a habit to order the dishes that I do not usually make or cannot make at home, and, if I really want to test the quality of cooking, I order something that has a thin margin for error, like salmon.

I’ve had the opportunity to try a variety of dishes from my nights out and brunch binges. From the dishes I’ve had, I was pleasantly surprised that my favorite is a sweet pea soup with oregano and manchego cheese. The small, humble pea. Now bolstered in mind’s menu as one to not overlook.

A special inclusion at Jean-Georges that I adore is a candy set that is presented at the end of dinner with dessert and your evening drink of choice, be it coffee, tea or port, or candy trolley that circles during brunch that with addition of in-house chocolates, includes marshmallows.

The best compliment for a restaurant, aside from praising the food and, of course, recommending it, I believe, is answering the question: Would you come back? To this, I would say, yes. I already have and will continue to do so while I’m in the city.